This week we are serving a cotognata – a romantic favourite ever since those famous lines from Plutarch’s first smash hit, ‘Quince and marriage/Go together like a horse and carriage’. Many inferior cover versions followed. You’d like to try your hand at using quince in your dinner? Bartolomeo Scappi’s recipe, reproduced here with thanks to pulcinellapasta, is a classic: ‘“To prepare a jelly of finely chopped chicken with quince juice,” one needed to boil 4 capons, plucked and drawn, and 20 goat kid’s feet, cleaned and skinned. When reduced by two-thirds, skim off the fat and strain. Return the broth to the pot and add 2 pounds of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon, 8 ounces of quince juice, 4 ounces of vinegar and 6 of white wine, plus a bit of salt and some chopped apple. Cook the concoction a bit more then pour through a filter and allow to cool.’ (The opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570): L’arte et prudenza d’un maestro cuoco, trans. Terence Scully. Toronto, 2008, p. 609). You don’t feel quite up to that? Then here’s Francesco Goglia to talk about the word ….