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A volte ritornano… la Pasta alla Panna

Edda Orlandi • Dec 04, 2012

Edda Orlandi writes ...

Se c’è una cosa che mette d’accordo tutti gli italiani è l’idea che panna e burro siano il male assoluto in cucina. Tanto insalubri (“grasso”! “colesterolo”!) quanto pericolosi per identità culinaria nazionale (“non c’entrano niente con la nostra tradizione!”). E in queste circostanze, la pasta con la panna rappresenta un caso emblematico.

 

Fino a poco fa, l’ultimo ricordo che avevo della pasta con panna era di averla mangiata nell’88 o giù di lì, preparata dalla nonna a condizione che non lo raccontassimo alla mamma. Da  allora, dopo l’invenzione della dieta mediterranea, è stata retrocessa, nell’immaginario collettivo, da piatto degno di essere servito ai nipotini da nonne ben intenzionate benché non molto consapevoli sul lato della sana alimentazione, a stereotipo dell’orrore che esemplificava quanto di più insalubre ma soprattutto kitsch potesse essere immaginato (rimane memorabile la celebre scenetta di Lillo & Greg  con il cameriere della trattoria “Non solo panna”, che snocciola il suo menu “penne e panna, penne panna prosciutto, penne panna prosciutto e funghi…”).

 

Sembrava che la pasta alla panna fosse sparita dalle tavole italiane per più di vent’anni, ma giusto l’anno scorso in questo periodo, leggendo alcuni diari delle pietanze preparate durante la settimana da parte di massaie intervistate per una ricerca di mercato, mi sono accorta che le famigerate 4P anni ’80 (Penne-Panna-Prosciutto e Piselli) spopolavano in quasi tutti, descritte come piatto “appetitoso e nutriente”. Iniziale stupore da parte mia. Dopo poche settimane mi capita di leggere il post di una temeraria food blogger che osa presentare una  pasta con panna e salmone  (attribuendola perfidamente alla suocera, con la scusa di renderle omaggio). La settimana successiva mi accorgo che anche sul menu dell’osteria aspirazionale di fronte all’ufficio hanno piazzato i tortellini alla panna… e da lì, nel giro di un mese, l’epidemia è dilagata ovunque: una invasione di panna sui menu pausa pranzo dei bar intorno alla circonvallazione interna di tutta Milano.

E così, ecco riabilitate, come qualunque oggetto che fu di moda e senza dubbio lo sarà ancora, forse complice il bisogno di conforto suscitato dalla crisi, anche le penne&panna snobbate dall’integralismo dieta-mediterraneo.

[NdR: questo post inaugura la discussione del cibo e della tavola, elementi fondamentali per qualsiasi analisi saziante della cultura italiana, ieri e oggi]

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